Plant Fashion: A Farm Transition Initiative
While endeavoring to make the global fashion industry sustainable is a monumental task, there are implementable initiatives that can get the fashion industry closer to sustainability by using science-based knowledge, data, and research. A multifaceted, cooperative effort is required to realize the vision of a sustainable fashion industry, since this complex matter is not a one-solution-fits-all issue.
For instance, we can use information pertaining to the effects of farming cows for leather items — whether as co-products of the food industry, or directly for the fashion industry. Raising cows for these sectors has led to 80% of the Amazon’s deforestation, with one Brazilian animal-based leather bag being equal to 1,000 square meters of land cleared (Collective Fashion Justice., n.d.). Similarly, 54% of Australian land degradation is due to animal agriculture, and the production of one pair of animal skin leather boots emits at least 66kg of carbon (Collective Fashion Justice., n.d.). A reversal of this scenario is equally notable, since plant farming capably sequesters CO2 levels (De Deyn, et al., 2008), helping to protect the planet from the effects of climate change.
The urgency and enormity of the animal-based agriculture issue cannot be overstated; nevertheless, it is a complex global development problem that can be addressed with a straightforward solution. Oftentimes, in discourse pertaining to reducing or eliminating animal agriculture, defenders of animal-based farming unyieldingly refer to the concerns of animal farmers (Mercy For Animals, n.d.) However, protecting nonhuman animals, supporting the planet, and meeting the needs of farmers are not mutually-exclusive goals; they can all be achieved through plant farming.
An initiative we can propose to this effect is one that aims to transition animal-based farms and farmers to plant farming for the fashion industry’s quickly booming next-gen plant fabrics industry. The United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and their targets are not supporting climate goals quickly or efficiently enough; continuing to support unsustainable systems like animal agriculture does not enable achievement of the SDGs by 2030 (Brown, 2019). Our transformative solution for increasing the sustainability of the global fashion industry will involve partnering with various stakeholders — including the sustainability experts at the UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion, farmers, regional agronomists (experts for local soil health and crop productions), academics, and researchers — to apply this initiative in a localized, but global, manner. With this cooperative effort, we can transform fashion’s supply chains, bringing a vision for a sustainable fashion future forward far more effectively, while benefiting nonhuman animals, our planet, and the lives of farmers worldwide.
There are numerous material impacts of animal-based fibers. Our proposed initiative will address the impacts that are most critical. First, global production of animal-based products have led to massive amounts of CO2 emissions (Material Innovation Initiative, 2022). Data from the Higg Materials Sustainability Index shows that animal-based materials make up 4 of the 5 worst ones for the environment, since turning animal bodies into usable fashion material requires significant energy, land, water, and harmful chemicals (Material Innovation Initiative, 2022).
Meanwhile, countless species have long been considered “fashion animals”, and have suffered drastically for the sake of human consumerism in an archaic industry, and we have the opportunity to liberate them from these needless and unnatural systems (Collective Fashion Justice, n.d.). In terms of soil health and efficiency, plant farming creates 1.5 trillion pounds more “product” than animal agriculture, since plant farming uses 115 million less acres of land (Faunalytics, 2017). There is also a dramatically-shifting consumer demand for animal-free fashion; fashion’s supply chains will benefit monetarily by embracing this shift, as evidenced by the ever-growing number of luxury brands that are including vegan fashion into their lines (Roberts-Islam, 2021).
Finally, there are the farmers looking for better alternatives. Sheep farmers and shearers are paid poorly, while sustaining high rates of injuries, in the wool industry (Collective Fashion Justice, n.d.). Animal-based farms consistently lose money, with farmers typically working under exploitative contracts that rarely allow a living wage (Collective Fashion Justice, n.d.). Tannery workers suffer cancer at high rates due to carcinogens (Collective Fashion Justice, n.d.). And animal farming is chronically stressful, taking a toll on mental health (Dairy Farm Transition, n.d). Prevalence of depression and suicide rates are higher among animal farmers than they are for the general public (Dairy Farm Transition, n.d.).
Our farm transition initiative will allow animal-free, environmentally-friendly supply chains to become commensurate with worthwhile opportunities for farming communities. Rapid phaseout of animal agriculture can result in half of the emission reductions required to meet global GHG targets (Eisen, 2022). Eliminating animal agriculture has the potential to offset 68 percent of current anthropogenic CO2 emissions (Eisen, 2022). By transitioning to plant farming in support of the growing next-gen materials industry, farmers gain more wealth, health, and autonomy (Dairy Farm Transition, n.d.). Furthermore, animal farmers who have found opportunities to transition to plant farming have expressed relief and gratitude, and their takeaways reflect the ways in which they have found solace in bringing life to the soil, air, and their communities through growing plants — as opposed to harming and killing animals, while damaging the planet (Dairy Farm Transition, n.d., Mercy For Animals, n.d.)
Our initiative will provide the tools, knowledge, and resources to help farmers make this important transition, while empowering them to take part in the evolution of the fashion industry to create a more modern, profitable, localized, and regenerative plant-based materials supply chain. Although helping animal farmers transition to plant farming is a recent concept, two such initiatives have been introduced in the food sector. Ours will be the first formally introduced to transition animal farmers to next-gen materials farming for the fashion industry. We will also collaborate with groups helping animal farmers transition to plant farming in the food sector, as there will be cross-sectional advantages — with some animal-based food farmers benefiting more from transitioning to regionally-appropriate plant farming for the fashion industry.
Additional positive outcomes are expected with our proposed initiative. First, nonhuman animals will no longer be a part of fashion’s supply chains. This will allow more people the chance to develop a senses of respect for all species, providing an opportunity to get closer to a more biocentric and ecocentric collective worldview. We will begin to see carbon-sequestering through plants, and there will also be a massive reduction in water and land usage once nonhuman animals are no longer raised for fashion. Furthermore, this initiative will create new jobs for farmers in animal agriculture, whether in the food or fashion sector. Some plants, like pineapples, can be grown to use for both food and for fashion materials (such as next-gen material, Piñatex), offering even more opportunities for farmers to accumulate healthy living wages.
Our implementable actions will include providing transitional support for farmers, such as education, state-specific funding sources, resources, grants, loans, and guidance. We will also provide toolkits for farmers that include support representatives to help with the farmers’ transition process, funding sources, FAQ’s, training opportunities, and identifying appropriate partners and stakeholders. Further, we will apply localized expertise to target the best crops to grow in every location, with a particular focus on areas where there is animal-based farming occurring for the fashion industry. Each location can have optimal crops to which the farmers can transition. Stakeholders that benefit will include municipalities, since incorporating native plants into land management helps maintain soil quality, and prevents soil degradation (Shelef, 2017). Localized agriculture can also help minimize exploitation of labor forces in developing countries, and improve fair trade (Shelef, 2017).
There will be challenges facing farmers who want to transition to plant farming. Transitioning farms will require time and financial support, so they may need funding and guidance during these transition periods. Our funding and partnering resources will provide help for farmers in the transitioning process. Potential for farm transition opportunities will be abundant, however. For example, Australia is the leading global producer of sheep wool; instead, farmers can grow hemp, a high-yielding, durable, efficient annual crop that can be grown easily in every Australian state (Industrial Hemp Taskforce Victoria, 2020) and has many of the same qualities as wool.
To replace land and water-intensive animal farming in hotter climates, farmers can grow regenerative, climate-friendly cactus for the vegan leather industry. Animal agriculture in cool and milder climates can be replaced by growing mushrooms for vegan leather. Mushroom leather is now considered a scalable alternative to animal leather (Roberts-Islam, 2021). Companies like MycoWorks and Bolt Threads have already been demonstrating the enormous capabilities of mushrooms for the fashion industry. Farmers can replace animal farming in varying climates and locations with apple orchards, banana trees, pineapple crops, and more. Not only are fruits made into vegan leather, their waste can be used, as well (Chauhan, 2021). Making fashion materials out of food waste is yet another innovative step towards a sustainable fashion future.
Our vision for the future is one in which the global fashion industry no longer exploits nonhuman animals in supply chains. The abundance of plants being grown around the world will sequester and reduce CO2 levels, and plant farmers will be healthier and able to enjoy financial stability. This initiative will be a cooperative effort involving various stakeholders, all motivated by the same intent of improving the sustainability of the fashion industry by removing animal-based materials from supply chains, and replacing them with plant materials. Our emphasis will not be on disruption or competition, but rather on partnerships and collaboration. These implementable actions will create the opportunity to collectively liberate and protect animals from harm, while healing the planet, and improving the life of every farmer.
References:
Brown, K., Rasmussen, K. (2019). What the science says on the Sustainable Development Goals. United Nations Foundation. https://unfoundation.org/blog/post/what-the-science-says-on-the-sustainable-development-goals/
Chauhan, P. (2021). French startup turns fruit waste into vegan leather. Planet Custodian. https://www.planetcustodian.com/fruit-waste-into-vegan-leather/19867/
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Collective Fashion Justice. (n.d). Leather. Collective Fashion Justice. https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/leather
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De Deyn, G.B., Cornelissen, J.H.C., Bardgett, R.D. (2008). Plant functional traits and soil carbon sequestration in contrasting biomes. Ecology Letters.
Eisen, M.B., Brown, P.O. (2022). Rapid global phaseout of animal agriculture has the potential to stabilize greenhouse gas levels. PLOS Climate. https://journals.plos.org/climate/article?id=10.1371/journal.pclm.0000010
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Industrial Hemp Taskforce Victoria. (2020). 2020 Industrial hemp update. Industrial Hemp Taskforce Victoria. https://agriculture.vic.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0015/603231/DJPR-AG-VIC-Industrial-Hemp-Taskforce-Interim-Report.pdf
Material Innovation Initiative. (2022). Our vision. Material Innovation Initiative. https://www.materialinnovation.org/our-why
Mercy For Animals. (n.d.). Building a farmer-led movement for a better food system. Transfarmation. https://thetransfarmationproject.org/#the-case-for-transfarmation
Roberts-Islam, B. (2021). Mushroom-based ‘leather’ is now a scalable alternative to animal leathers, poised for market disruption. Forbes. https://www.forbes.com/sites/brookerobertsislam/2021/04/01/mushroom-leather-is-now-a--scalable-alternative-to-animal-leathers-poised-for-market-disruption/?sh=25dd16fd5b19
Shelef, O., Weisberg, P.J., Provenza, F.D. (2017). The value of native plants and local production in an era of global agriculture. Frontiers in Plant Science. https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fpls.2017.02069/full